► Telephone outlet:
22-gauge tour-wire phone cable (or eight-wire cable, if required by your telephone company), flush-mount telephone outlet.
pry] Cable television jack:
Coaxial cable with F-connectors, signal splitter, cable television outlet with mounting brackets
■ Circuit #5: A 20-amp. 240-volt circuit that supplies power to three baseboard heaters controlled by a wall thermostat, and to a bathroom blower-heater controlled by a built-in thermostat Includes: 12/2 NM cable. 750-watt blower-heater. single-gang box. line-voltage thermostat, three baseboard heaters. 20-amp double pole circuit breaker.
• Circuit #3: A 20-amp. 240-volt air-conditioner circuit. Includes: 12/2 NM cable: single-gang box: 20-amp. 240-volt receptacle (duplex or singleplex style); 20-amp double-pole circuit.
H Circuit #4: A 15-amp, 120-volt basic lighting/receptacle circuit serving most of the fixtures in the bedroom and study areas. Includes: 14/2 and 14/3 NM cable. 2 double-gang boxes, fan speed-control switch, dimmer switch, single-pole switch, 2 three-way switches. 2 plastic light fixture boxes, light fixture for stairway, smoke detector, metal light fixture box with brace bar. ceiling fan with light fixture, 10 single-gang boxes. 4' x 4" box with single-gang adapter plate, 10 duplex receptacles (15-amp). 15-amp single-pole circuit breaker.
1:Plan the Circuits
Your plans for wiring a room addition should reflect how you will use the space. For example, an attic space used as a bedroom requires an air-conditioner circuit, while a basement area used as a sewing room needs extra lighting. See pages 138 to 143 for information on planning circuits, and call or visit your city building inspector's office to learn the local code requirements. You will need to create a detailed wiring diagram and a list of materials before the inspector will grant a work permit for your job.
The National Electrical Code requires receptacles to be spaced no more than 12 feet apart, but for convenience you can space them as close as 6 feet apart. Also consider the placement of furniture in the finished room, and do not place receptacles or baseboard heaters where beds, desks, or couches will cover them.
Electric heating units are most effective if you position them on the outside walls, underneath the windows. Position the receptacles to the sides of the heating units, not above the heaters where high temperatures might damage electrical cords.
Room light fixtures should be centered in the room, while stairway lights must be positioned so each step is illuminated. All wall switches should be within easy reach of the room entrance. Include a smoke alarm if your room addition includes a sleeping area.
Installing a ceiling fan improves heating and cooling efficiency and is a good idea for any room addition. Position it in a central location, and make sure there is plenty of headroom beneath it. Also consider adding accessory wiring for telephone outlets, television jacks, or stereo speakers.
A permanently wired smoke alarm (page 223) is required by local building codes for room additions that include sleeping areas. Plan to install the smoke alarm just outside the sleeping area, in a hallway or stairway. Battery-operated smoke detectors are not allowed in new room additions.
A bathroom vent fan (pages 208 to 211) may be required by your local building code, especially if your bathroom does not have a window. Vent fans are rated according to room size. Find the bathroom size in square feet by multiplying the length of the room times its width, and buy a vent fan rated for this size.
If your room addition includes a bathroom, it will have special wiring needs. All bathrooms require one or more GFCI receptacles, and most need a vent fan. An electric blower-heater will make your bathroom more comfortable.
Before drawing diagrams and applying for a work permit, calculate the electrical load (pages 148 to 151). Make sure your main service provides enough power for the new circuits.
Refer to pages 152 to 167 when drawing your wiring diagram. Using the completed diagram as a guide, create a detailed list of the materials you need. Bring the wiring diagram and the materials list to the inspector's office when you apply for the work permit. If the inspector suggests changes or improvements to your circuit design, follow that advice. These suggestions can save you time and money, and will ensure a safe, professional wiring installation.
Blower-heaters with built-in thermostats (page 206 and 224) work well in small areas like bathrooms, where quick heat is important. Some models can be wired for either 120 or 240 volts. A bathroom blower-heater should be placed well away from the sink and tub. at a comfortable height where the controls are easy to reach. In larger rooms, electric baseboard heaters controlled by a wall thermostat are more effective than blower-heaters.
A wiring plan for a room addition should show the location of all partition walls, doorways, and windows Mark the location of all new and existing plumbing fixtures, water lines, drains, and vent pipes Draw in any chimneys and duct work for central heating and air-conditioning systems Make sure the plan is drawn to scale, because the size of the space will determine how you rojte the electrical cables and arrange the receptacles and fixtures
Telephone and cable television wiring (pages 216 to 217) is easy to install at the same time you are installing electrical circuits. Position the accessory outlets in convenient locations, and keep the wiring at least 6' away from the electrical circuits to prevent static interference
How to Install a Blower-Heater
1 Disconnect th lug 'rom the bj tacle tha: exten the motor d>
the wire connection
3 Open one knockout lor each cable that will enter the wire connection box Attach a cable clamp to each knockout Position trame against a wall stud so the front lip will be Hush with the finished wall surface Attach the frame as directed by the manufacturer
Wiring a Room Addition
2: Install Boxes & Cables
For efficiency, install the electrical boxes for all new circuits before running any of the cables After all the cables are installed, your proiect is ready for the rough-in inspection Do not make the final connections until your work has passed rough-m inspection
Boxes: See pages 170 to 175 for information on choosing and installing standard electrical boxes In addition, your room addition may have recessed fixtures, like a blower-heater (photo, right) or vent fan (pages 208 to 211) These recessed fi tures have built-in wire connection boxes and should be installed at the same time you are installing the standard electrical boxes. For a ceiling fan or other heavy ceiling fixture, install a metal box and brace bar (page opposite)
Cables: See pages 178 to 183 to install NM cable In addition you can install the necessary wiring for telephone outlets and cable television lacks (pages 216 to 217) This wiring is easy to install at the same time you are running electrical circuits and is not subject to formal inspection
2 Take out the motor unit by removing the mounting screw and sliding the unit out of the frame
How to Install a Metal Box & Brace Bar for a Ceiling Fan
How to Install a Metal Box & Brace Bar for a Ceiling Fan
legs are tiusn C Tign nd spikes 3
lOisis so the urace legs are tiusn C Tign nd spikes 3
lOisis so the urace
, ^ coverplate Exterior wall J
Vent fan Two-wire cable
Vent fan Two-wire cable
Wiring a Room Addition
A vent fan helps prevent moisture damage to a bathroom by exhausting humid air to the outdoors Vent fans are rated to match different room sizes. A vent fan can be controlled by a wall-mounted timer or single-pole switch Some models have built-in light fixtures.
Position the vent fan in the center of the bathroom or over the stool area In colder regions, building codes require that the vent hose be wrapped with insulation to prevent condensation of the moist air passing through the hose
A vent fan has a built-in motor and blower that exhaust moisture-laden air from a bathroom to the outdoors through a plastic vent hose A two-wire cable from a wall-mounted timer or single-pole switch is attached to the fan wire connection box with a cable clamp A louvered coverplate mounted on the outside wall seals the vent against outdoor air when the motor is stopped
How to Install a Vent Fan in New Construction
1 Disassemble the fan, following manufacturer's directions Position the frame against a rafter so edge extends '/■■" below bottom edge of rafter to provide proper spacing for grill cover Anchor frame with wallboard screws
2 Choose the exit location for the vent. Temporarily remove any insulation, and draw the outline of the vent flange opening on the wall sheathing
3 Drill a pilot hole, then make the cutout by sawing through the sheathing and siding with a jig saw Keep the blade to the outside edge of the guideline
4 Insert the vent tailpiece into the cutout, and attach it to the ..all Dy driving wallboard screws through the flange and into the sheathing
5 Slide one end of vent hose over the tailpiece Place one of the hose clamps around the end of the vent hose, and tighten it with a screwdriver Replace insulation against sheathing
6 Attach a hose adapter to the outlet on the fan frame by driving sheet-metal screws through the adapter and into the outlet flarge (Note On some fans a hose adapter is not requireo
7 Slide the vent hose over the adapter Place a hose clamp around the end of the hose and tighten it with a screwdriver Your building code may require that you insulate the vent hose to prevent condensation problems
8 On the outside wall of the house, place the lou-vered vent cover ever the vent tailpiece, making sure the louvers are lacing down Attach the cover to the wall with galvanized screws Apply a thick bead of caulk around the edge of the cover
Vent fans with heaters or light fixtures: Some manufacturers recommend using 2" dimension lumber to build dams between the ceiling joists to keep insulation at least 6" away from the vent fan unit
1 Position the vent fan unit against a ceiling joist. Outline the vent fan onto the ceiling, from above Remove unit, then drill pilot holes at the comers of the outline and cut out the area with a jig saw or wallboard saw
2 Remove the grille from the fan box. then position box against a joist, with the edge recessed 'A" from the finished surface of the ceiling (so the grille can be flush-mounted). Attach box to joist, using wallboard screws.
4 Strip 10" of sheathing from the end of the cable, then feed cable into switch box so at least V' of sheathing extends into the box. Tighten mounting screws until box is secure
5 Strip 10" of sheathing from the end of the cable at the vent box, then attach the cable to a cable clamp Insert the cable into the fan box. From inside of box. screw a locknut onto the threaded end of the clamp.
3 Mark and cut an opening for the switch box on the wall next to the latch side of the bathroom door, then run a 14-gauge, 3-wire NM cable from the switch cutout to the vent fan unit.
How to Install a Vent Cover Flange on the Roof
Vent cover flange
IMark the exit location in the roof for the vent hose, next to a rafter Drill a pilot hole, then saw through the sheathing and roofing material with a reciprocating saw to make the cutout for the vent tailpiece
2 From outside, remove section of shingles from around the cutout, leaving roofing paper intact. Removed shingles should create an exposed area the size of the vent cover flange. Use caution when working on a roof
3 Attach a hose clamp to the rafter next to the roof cutout, about 1" below the roof sheathing (top photo). Insert the vent tailpiece into the cutout and through the hose clamp, then tighten the clamp screw (bottom photo)
4 Slide one end of vent hose over the tailpiece, and slide the other end over the outlet on the fan unit. Slip hose clamps or straps around each end of the vent hose, and tighten to secure hose in place
5 Wrap the vent hose with pipe insulation. Insulation prevents moist air inside the hose from condensing and dripping down into the fan motor
6 Apply roofing cement to the bottom of the vent cover flange, then slide the vent cover over the tailpiece Nail the vent cover flange in place with self-sealing roofing nails, then patch in shingles around cover.
installing lights in any other "lanes a bathroom safer ■jiis seem larger In showers that have been UL rated gasket that fits between
Caution: Always shut off electrical power at the main service panel, and test for power (page 8) before working with wires.
Everything You Need
Tools: neon circuit tester, wire stripper, cable ripper, screwdriver, level.
Materials: NM cable, wire staples, wire connectors, screws.
Running cables tor new electrical fixtures is easiest if wall surfaces have been removed Make the final wiring hookups at the fixtures after wall surfaces are finished
Follow local code requirements for wiring bathrooms Reduce shock hazard by protecting the entire bathroom circuit with GFCl receptacles Install only electrical fixtures that are UL approved
If it is not practical to remove wall surfaces, "retrofit" techniques can be used to install vent fans and other fixtures Most wiring connections for bathroom fixtures are easy to make, but wiring configurations in electrical boxes vary widely depending on the type of fixture and the circuit layout
If you are not confident m your skills, have an electrician install and connect fixtures Unless you are very confident, leave the job of making circuit connections at the main service panel to an electrician
Install a GFCl receptacle and switch by making the following connections black wire from power source (A) to brass screw marked LINE on GFCl white wire from power source (B) to silver screw marked LINE, white wire to light (C) to silver GFCl screw marked LOAD black wire to light (D) to a screw terminal on switch Cut a short length ol black wire (E) and attach one end to brass GFCl screw marked LOAD and other end to a screw terminal on switch Connect a bare grounding pigtail wire to GFCl grounding screw (F) and |Oin all bare grounding wires (G) with a wire connector Tuck wires into box. then attach switch, receptacle and coverplate Use the circuit maps on pages 155 to 167 as a guide lor making connections
•he Adding new nd can even like hts have over installing lights in any other "lanes a bathroom safer ■jiis seem larger In showers that have been UL rated gasket that fits between
ITurn power off Remove coverplate from light fixture and feed the electrical cable through the hole m the back of the fixture Note Some bathroom lights like the shower light on page 212. have a connection box that is separate from the light fixture
2 Position the fixture in the planned location, and adiust it so it Is level (Center the fixture if it is being installed over a medicine cabinet) If possible, attach the box at wall stud locations if studs are not conveniently located, anchor the box to the wall, using toggle bolts or other connectors
3 Make electrical connections: attach white wire from cable (A) to white fixture wire (8). using a wire connector, attach black wire from cable (C) to black fixture wire (D); connect bare copper grounding wire from cable (E) to the fixture grounding wire (F) (or attach to grounding screw in some fixtures).
4 Tuck the wires into the back of the box. then attach the fixture coverplate Install unprotected light bulbs only after the rest of the remodeling project is completed
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