Scarf Joint Baseboard

Scarf joint

Coped ^

piece

Butted piece

Direct sight lines from room entrance i* /

45 miter joint 7

Plan the order of installation -or your baseboard or ceiling moldings to save time and improve your results. Start by measuring the walls that are most noticeable—typically walls that are directly opposite entrances to the room. Cut and install the pieces for those walls first so that any gaps in the corners will be out of the direct line of sight when you enter the room. On subsequent pieces, cut the inside corners to size, then hold those pieces in position on the wall and mark the opposite ends for cutting. By doing so. you'll avoid cutting pieces that are too short

Outaiôe corner miter

Scarf joint

Scarf joint

Outaiôe corner miter

Joints used to install baseboard and ceiling trim depend on where they are located in the room. For joints that run along the length of a wall, use a scarf joint Interior comers took better when a coped joint is used rather than a m*ter joint For outside corners, miter joints kx)k great Tip: Do not assume that any corne' is a true 90° angle Measure each corner with a T-bevel before making miter cuts

A pneumatic nailer greatly simplifies tasks such as nailing trim—it frees one hand to support the trim as you nail A nailer also countersinks each nail automatically, eliminating the need to use a nail set

Floor Trim End Cap

Dress up simple baseboard stock with cap moldings and base shoe or quarter round. Cap moldings are installed a? an angle, like crown moldings; Cut these moldings, as you would cei.'ing moldings (page 89). using compound miter cuts

Form butt joints at door casings :>y square-cutting the baseboard to meel the casing Whenever possible. select trim with a profile no thicker than the casings. so the two trims will olend well where they meet.

Planning a Baseboard Tnm Project

Dress up simple baseboard stock with cap moldings and base shoe or quarter round. Cap moldings are installed a? an angle, like crown moldings; Cut these moldings, as you would cei.'ing moldings (page 89). using compound miter cuts

How to Install Baseboard

Form butt joints at door casings :>y square-cutting the baseboard to meel the casing Whenever possible. select trim with a profile no thicker than the casings. so the two trims will olend well where they meet.

IMark each wall about 1 It from the fkwr to indicate the locations of the studs Use a stua finder if necessary

2 Measure each wall and mark baseboard to fit. bearing in mind the order in which you plan to install each piece, and whether it will be mounted flush with the walls at each end or butted against adjacent pieces.

Option When installing contoured baseboard bun one p<ece against the adjacent wall Miter-cut the overlapping piece at a 45° angle, and cope the edge with a coping saw. following the contour of the piece.

3 To install flat baseboard at inside corners, form s«mple butt joints by making a square cut on the end of each piece, then mount one piece flush with the adjacent wall and butt the other piece agamst the first

4 At outside corners, hold each piece m position and mark them for cutting where the inside edge meets the outside corner of the wail Set a miter saw to 45°. and make miter cuts.

5 Drill pilot holes and attach the baseboard pieces Drive nails, slightfy offset, at each stud location, YS from the top and bottom ot the piece so the upper nails enter the studs and the lower nails enter the sole plate

6 Lock-nail the outside comers by driving an additional nail at a slight angle through each p<ece about r from the joint. If you're nailing with a hammer. use a nail set to sink each nail head slightly be-low the surface Fill the nail holes with wood putty.

Option When installing contoured baseboard bun one p<ece against the adjacent wall Miter-cut the overlapping piece at a 45° angle, and cope the edge with a coping saw. following the contour of the piece.

How to Install Crown Molding

1 Measure and mark a piece o' molding for the first wall in the example shown here, installation begins on a wall that has an »ns*de and an outside corner. so the molding is cut to length with a square cut at one end and a miter cut at the other end

3 On a second piece of molding, make a 45' miter cut on the end that will mate with the previous piece Cope the mitered edge with a coping saw back-cutting sfcghtty. Remove any burrs with a utility knife

2 Attach the first piece of molding by positioning it on the wali so the fiats are frush aga*nst the wall and ceiling, driifing pilot holes, and driving finish nails through the flats of the molding at tho stud locations Note; To avoid splitting moldings, slightly offset the nails that will enter the ceiling joists from those that will enter the studs.

41 On the oiher end. make a miter cut for an outside I corner. Attach the p>ece by driving finish nails as before. Install the remaining pieces, forming coped jomts on each inside corner and mitered joints at outside corners. Drive nails to within W of the wood, then finish with a nail set. Fill the nail hotes with wood putty

Wood Working 101

Wood Working 101

Have you ever wanted to begin woodworking at home? Woodworking can be a fun, yet dangerous experience if not performed properly. In The Art of Woodworking Beginners Guide, we will show you how to choose everything from saws to hand tools and how to use them properly to avoid ending up in the ER.

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